I have had the opportunity to see several of the new "cush panel" saddles after they'd been used, and in each case, the horse was quite sore.  Although the points seemed correct for the horse, pressure had been building under the front part of the saddle.  In both cases, wool had been added according to the manufacturer's recommendations to stop bridging.  Instead of improving fit, the wool had added pressure in the middle of the back.  The weight of the rider had completely compressed the panel except where the points and the added wool were.  The concept of such a soft panel might look very good on paper, but in actual use, the design causes pain for the animal that the company is supposedly trying to help.

One of the saddle owners had researched the technique and talked extensively about the benefits at the tack shop where she purchased it.  Unfortunately, she has spent her saddle money on a saddle that won't work for her horse or, from what I can see, any other horse.  Another saddle owner had the "cush" removed and replaced with wool.  Hopefully, that saddle will work as corrected.  If not, the owner is committed enough to her partner that she is willing to purchase another saddle with a better design.  It would have been helpful had the company spent more time in the field prior to distribution.  If they had, possibly the saddle would not have been marketed and had the opportunity to do the damage it has done.

Another panel problem I saw recently is not new but rather a modification of a saddle sold by another company that is now out of business.  I had fixed two saddles for the horse involved and was doing a re-check.  The horse's back had changed.  I was puzzled.  I could not see how the two saddles I'd reflocked could have compromised the horse in such a manner.  Along both sides, parallel to the spine, was a deep line.  The muscles between that line and the spine were compressed and reactive. Only when I saw the new saddle did I understand what had happened.  The panels are long, flat, and only about a quarter of an inch thick.  Supposedly, they lie flat along the horse's back.  By design they can't because the front part is supposed to reason the horse's shoulder.  In this case, the panels only made contact on the bottom edge, creating that line, and on the withers which caused a sore on each side.  Like its predecessors, this saddle might look good on paper but in the real world only causes problems for the horses it is intended to help.

Wool-flocked, gusseted panels are still the best for a good fit.  The novel or unconventional panels will usually cause problems because they are not designed with the horse in mind but as a new way to make money.

There are two ways to reflock a saddle.  The first way is where wool is added through the saddler's holes, slits on the underside of the panel.  This is done without taking the saddle apart.  The second way is where the saddle is taken apart or at least the back panels are dropped.  Wool is added through the same saddler's holes, but all areas of the panels can be reached easily.  After the wool is placed in the correct spots for the horse, and pounded to pack, the saddle is re-stitched.

Inserting wool only, without dropping the panels, is a fairly quick process and most often is done on site.  The technician is able to do the work quite quickly.  It is a popular method because of the short amount of time and energy spent, with immediate compensation.  The benefit for horse owners is that their saddle doesn't have to be taken and no riding time is lost.  The loss for the owner and the horse is that, in most cases, the saddle wasn't flocked correctly for the horse.

I have had the opportunity to redo many of the saddles that were reflocked only through the saddler's holes.  As a result, I have learned that the procedure is only an exercise and does not really change the fit of the saddle.  An assembled saddle does not allow access to many areas of the panels through the saddler's holes.  Wool can be added to stop bridging in some cases, but cannot be placed in the area in the front near the points of the tree or under the cantle.  Also, excess wool cannot be removed, nor can lumps be pulled out.  Often, forcing wool in the narrow space of the panel creates additional lumps.

It would be so much more cost effective for me to do saddles on site.  I spend a great deal of un-reimbursed time taking saddles home, working on them, and returning to the barn a day or so later.  I have tried hard to get a perfect fit with the least amount of work.  However, after twelve years I've learned there is only one way to get it right, and that is to drop the panels, add the wool, and then re-stitch the panels.

About a year ago, a client returned from a clinic in North Carolina.  She had her saddle worked on by a clinician who said that the only way to reflock is through the holes without opening the saddle.  I spoke with him, and he said the procedure was very easy and that anyone who took the saddle apart didn't know the right way to do it.  He apparently has taught many others his technique and offered to teach me as well.  I was encouraged to find a way to become more cost effective, that is until I saw how the saddle he worked on fit the horse.  It didn't.  The saddler wasn't able to get the wool to the front of the saddle, where this narrow horse needed the support.  Also, the wool he'd pushed in through the holes had formed a lump.  I took the saddle apart and did it my way, and although it took a fair amount of time, it worked.  It fit the horse well.

I have just returned from New Jersey.  I was to check to see if I could make a currently owned dressage saddle fit a Morgan.  The woman also had a jumping saddle that had been worked on several times by a person who does the work at the barn.  The owner felt the saddle fit well because an expert had worked on it regularly.  Only at the last minute did she decide to have me check it.  Sadly, in spite of all the work done and money spent, the saddle bridged badly, was too firm under the cantle, and had lumps near the points.  As a result of the poor fit, the horse had depressions in his back muscles and a sore back.  Had the saddle been taken apart in the first place, the proper amount of wool could have been added to stop the bridging.  No lumps would have been created, and the panels under the cantle could have been softened.  When ridden, he was getting all the pressure from the rider on the front points and under the cantle, as if his rider was sitting on a chair.  Being a stoic  horse, he had not made his discomfort known.  The way the saddle fit, his hind-end movement would have been compromised.  The owner said that he was not using his hind-end as well as he had been nor did he like to jump as much as he had in the past.  She did not attribute it to the saddle since she'd had it worked on regularly.  Unfortunately, her effort had not benefited the horse.  The "expert" easily made money but the horse paid more than his share.

There is no magic or quick way to get a properly fitting saddle.  The saddle must be taken apart and the wool added to the specific spots needed for each horse.  My charges for the two trips and work done do not really cover my expenses.  I want people to place the horse first and not be constrained by the cost of keeping a saddle tuned up.  So, I charge the least I can to keep myself on the road and serve the horses that give so much of themselves for our pleasure.

Those who do have their saddle worked on regularly are benefiting.  They have fewer vet bills and lame horses and a more positive relationship with their equine partners.

The horse is designed to generate body heat and has great difficulty in getting rid of body heat.  Hot summers are much harder on horses than are cold winters.  One of the reasons horses get so "up" on cool fall days is that for the first time in a while, their bodies feel good.

Years ago I had my three horses in a show barn.  My horses were turned out blanket-less, without a shelter that winter, and it was a cold snowy one.  The other fancy horses were wrapped up tight in their blankets and stalled at night.  The owner of the barn kept warning me if I did not blanket, my horses would get sick.  Since my horses were doing well, I decided not to change my program.  Also, I noticed that the vet was out weekly or more often to treat the barn owner's horses for upper-respiratory infections.  One or two of her horses were sick the entire winter and her vet expenses were quite high.  My vet expenses were zero.  I also learned that the more natural I kept my horses, the better they would do.

I do sell Horseware Products, but it is hard for me to promote blankets when I see them over-used.  Blanketing can be of value for horses, especially if they are clipped or used to one; however, when it is overdone it can compromise the horse's immune system and cause problems rather than keep the horse healthy.

This is the best time of year to recheck the fit of your saddle.  Most horses are at their peak physically after a season of regular work.  Even with the use of an indoor arena, winter riding is not as active as riding done during the warmer months.  Making an adjustment now will allow the most accurate fit for the months to come.  If the saddle fits perfectly now, the horse will not be compromised or damaged while it is being ridden in the colder months.

Wool-flocked saddles, my preference, should be checked at least yearly, more often with harder use.  Wool packs down over time.  Additionally, horses' shapes change with regular work.

Foam and felt panels should be checked more often because they do not have the support of the wool-flocked.  If they are not right, compromise of the horse can take place more quickly.

I arrange my schedule so that I can work on and return saddles within just a few days.  Riding is such an important part of our lives that we should not be without the privilege any longer than necessary.

The cost of keeping a saddle "tuned-up" is small in the whole picture of keeping the horse sound and happy.  Mysterious lameness often disappear after a saddle adjustment.  In many cases, this requires less vet expense as well.

I've recently seen three horses who improved a great deal when they were not ridden for an extended period of time.  All three had compromises from previous accidents, poor saddle fit, or improper training.

The first horse I saw about a year ago.  The mare had been emotionally damaged as well as ridden incorrectly.  Not only was her back sore, she was untrusting to humans,  A saddle was fit to her but she could not be ridden consistently.  Each time she started under the saddle, she injured herself in the field.  After several false starts, she finally damaged herself enough to require a long period of stall rest.  The owner realized the horse was emotionally fragile and during her recuperation, has given her a great deal of attention.  Today, the mare is an entirely different animal.  Her body has completely relaxed.  With out any bodywork, she has changed completely.  The mare now has a completely straight back.  Her withers have shifted up, giving her a much more even top-line.  No longer is she rump high.  when she can be ridden again, she will be starting with a clean slate.  the saddle can be fitted to her perfectly, allowing her to develop herself correctly.

The second horse is a large, impressive young gelding.  The horse had been ridden before being imported.  He seemed fairly balanced for his age and the amount of work done previously.  The owner's saddle had to be adjusted to accommodate his wide back.  The horse worked well for a couple of months.  Because of the horse's build, it was decided to replace the felt panels with wool-flock.  Due to unforeseen circumstances, The saddle was gone for two months instead of the usual two weeks.  Since no other saddle was available that was wide enough, the horse had time off.  During that period, the owner decided to have chiropractic work done on the horse.  Much to everyone's surprise, the horse was quite locked in the hind end.  After a number of sessions, the horse's whole body shifted.  For the first time, his withers started becoming more prominent, and he became more relaxed and able to focus.

Because the delay of saddle and the owner having chiropractic work done to keep herself involved with the horse, the horse's compromise was discovered before he started having difficulty with training.  The horse now is ready to go.  The chiropractic work was most helpful, but even more to his benefit was the time off that allowed his body to heal from some unknown damage done, probably even before he was imported.  The owner is really excited about her "new" horse and is looking forward to developing a true partnership with this magnificent animal.

The third horse I first saw a week after he'd been purchased.  Although he had a beautiful spirit, his body was in pretty bad shape.  The horse had been used for years to teach young riders.  Only his willingness to please had kept him from protesting the pain he was in as a result of poor saddle fit and bad riding.  Fitting a saddle to him was almost impossible at first.  After several sessions of massage, the horse improved enough to have one fit to him.  However, before the owner had much time to ride him, she discovered she was pregnant.  Since the owner already had four children and didn't have much time to ride as it was, the horse got a year or more of vacation.  I saw him again recently and was astonished with how good his body looked.  For the first time, he looks as he should.  The rest was extremely good for his mental and physical healing.  Before long, he will again be a riding horse, but this time it will be a very pleasant experience for him.

In previous years, I've seen horses that were rested but never with such astonishing results.  Having bodywork done made a difference in the last two horses, but nothing was done to the first and the changes were significant.

There seems to be a feeling that horses must be ridden to change and develop.  However, it makes more sense that out of balance horses might not improve as much if they also have to adjust a compromised body under a rider's weight.  Just plain rest might also be a good alternative to the other methods used to make the horse a sound and happy riding partner.

There is much controversy about the best time to fit a young or new horse with a properly fitting saddle.  I hear so often, "I know my horse is going to change, so I don't want to fit now."  My experience shows that unless a horse is started in a properly fitted saddle, both emotional and physical damage can take place.  Horses change less physically when the saddle fits in the beginning, than if they have to compromise their bodies and movement to avoid pain.

In the past twelve years, every horse I have seen that was started in a ill-fitting saddle, either widened or narrowed significantly to avoid the pressure spot of the saddle.  When a correctly fitted saddle was used, the horse changed back to the original shape.  In most cases, the physical damage was not permanent; however, the horse started it's working career being compromised.  How thrilled is a horse going to be when it sees it's person appear with a pain-causing saddle?  The important bond needed for a true partnership will be negatively affected.

A saddle must fit the horse at all times.  The horses back cannot support uneven pressure.  If too much pressure is put in one spot, like the points or under the cantle, the back will drop to avoid the pressure.  When the horse is forced to pull away from the saddle and rider's weight, the muscles of the stomach stretch.  Actually, it is the strength of the stomach muscles and not the muscles of the back that are used to support the rider.  If we are standing with our stomach protruding, we use the stomach muscles to straighten ourselves rather than pulling ourselves up with our back muscles.  The horses back operates the same way.  It is our job to make sure that we do nothing to apply too much pressure in any one spot on the horses back, causing stress to the supporting stomach muscles.

One of the major indications of a compromised back on a horse is when they look pregnant.  I once worked with a small, but extremely wide pony that had been put on a diet because her stomach was so large.  Her back was very sway with depressions in the muscle where the back of the saddle had rested.  It was pretty obvious that she had never had a saddle wide enough for her back.  I had to press quite hard under her belly to get her to raise her back.  When she did, she no longer looked fat.  The last time I saw her after she'd been fit with a saddle wide enough for her back, she looked trim and fit.  She was also happy to be able to eat again, instead of being starved when she didn't need to lose weight.

The time to get a properly fitted saddle, either for a young or a new horse, is when you first plan to ride the horse.  In many cases, an existing saddle can be made to fit.  In fact, that is preferable, because a rider is not really able to evaluate a saddle until they have some miles on the horse.  I always encourage riders to use what they have until they know what they really want.  However, the fit for the horse can never be compromised.

I have recently had the opportunity to see four different brands of saddles using the bladder panels.  The problems for each were the same.  

Three of the horses reacted quite strongly when the saddle was placed on their back, even though each had been professionally fitted to them.  In each case, the owner reported that no matter how the air pressure had been changed, the horse did not like the saddle.

I watched one well-balanced rider attempt to stay in the proper position.  The saddle made her look as if she was riding on a waterbed.  Of course, this made it difficult to keep his balance and support her as well.  When she rose in the trot, the saddle collapsed in front, throwing her forward.  When she sat, the saddle collapsed in back, causing her to be sitting downhill.  I would suspect that if she had ridden much longer, the horse would have become sore, not only on his back but in the rest of his body from trying to stay balanced under an unbalanced rider.

As I said in a previous newsletter, the concept was interesting, but I doubted that it would work.  I have now had the opportunity to see that I was right.  In my opinion, there is no substitute for wool-flocked panels when they are designed properly for the shape of the horse's back.  In the literature for one of the economy saddles stating the advantage of their bladder panel, they say that a wool-flocked panel causes pressure spots.  If the panels are flocked correctly, this is never the case.  When I saw their saddle on a horse's back, pressure spots where quite obvious even to an untrained eye.

Newly designed saddles are like newly designed cars; never buy one the first year.  Wait until all the kinks have been worked out.  Unfortunately, many people who have purchased a saddle with a bladder panel now have an expensive saddle that they cannot use on their horse.  The market is also becoming tight.  They are becoming more difficult to sell as word gets out as to their unreliability.  

England, where the bladder panels came from, has already settled this controversy.  A hot idea several years ago, the bladder panel saddles are almost out of the picture.   

The weight of the rider must be evenly distributed on the horse. If it is not, the horse gets sore.

I continue to see saddles, some quite expensive, that are not designed with that in mind. The comfort of the seat of the rider is of no value if the panels do not make even contact on the horse.

Several brands I've worked with recently only make contact on the outside edge of the panels. Possibly, a horse could be found shaped to that extreme, but most horses are not made that way and are cut by the panel's edge.

My preference, without exception, is for wool-flocked, gusseted panels. They are the only ones that can be made to fit the horse's back correctly. In most cases, foam or felt panels cut in or bridge, making contact only in the front and back of the saddle. However, there are exceptions to a successful fit with wool-flocked panels. Several brands skimp on the underside leather piece and create a product that cuts in as well. Saddles with wool-flocked panels without a gusset can also rest too much on the outside edge of the panel. Usually, the wool cannot be moved to give it a better fit.

It is very discouraging for me to see so many saddles out there that are not designed for the horse. I hate seeing sore or damaged horses. When a saddle is purchased, one expects that it was properly designed and will fit the horse. Even the ones fitted by professionals selling a particular brand do not always work because of the design.

Some of my clients find that the fact that I mainly deal with two saddle companies is boring. I do so because the saddles are designed for the horse and that is the only way I can get the perfect fit for which I strive. Many people are surprised that when they try one of the brands they've never heard of, they are as comfortable as they are with the brands that are more well-known.

Since so many of the popular saddles are designed for the rider rather than the horse, they do feel good. However, my concern is more for how it feels for the horse, rather than the rider. I do want my clients to be comfortable, and I know they are more likely to be comfortable when their horse is made comfortable first.

Every time I go to a new barn, I automatically evaluate if it would be a good place for my horses. I guess it is a habit because until I had my horses at home, I moved them many times.

So many of the barns offer wonderful services: a nice covered ring, automatic waterers, heated tack rooms, and so on, all things attractive to the humans.

What I see lacking so often is a true commitment to the horse. Being handled gently and consistently is so much more important to the horse than how fancy the facilities are.

For me, the most telling thing about how good a barn is, is how content the horses look. I like to see horses come to the front of the stall when a person enters rather than stay in the back of the stall. This indicates to me that the horses are relaxed and comfortable with their environment. Horses are naturally curious and, if happy, will check out what is going on around them.

An adequate and clean water supply is something I find many don't place as a top priority and yet this is a major requirement for horses. I have seen many pastures with empty or dirty water tubs and I am always surprised that the horses aren't colicking on a regular basis.

Also, it seems to me that in many of the boarding facilities those in charge forget who owns the horses. Boarders would be so much more content if they felt they could participate in their horse's care. I realize that boarders can be difficult with various requests and opinions, but without them the barn would not be in operation. Years ago at one facility, I was very concerned that my horses had gotten too heavy and I requested a reduction in grain. I saw no change in their weight and found out from the grapevine that no reduction had been made because the owner liked to see fat horses. Since my veterinarian was also concerned, I eventually moved to a place that allowed me to participate in my horses' care.

Unfortunately too many of the boarding facilities are run by horse lovers rather than by true business people who desire to keep the boarders happy and the horses healthy. The constant turnover in most barns not only affects the reputation of the facility, it also cheats the boarders who stay because it affects the cash available for quality help and good feed.

Over the past few years, many of my clients have opted for their own place because they wanted to participate in their horse's care. I now love being able to make the decisions about my horses, but might not have taken on the work and responsibility had I found a facility which understood that I had a right to be involved with the care of my animals.

I find that horses owners are now becoming more knowledgeable and are not as willing to stay on the sidelines. The boarding facilities that are staying full already know this. It is exciting to go into those barns and see happy horses and happy people. Hopefully, those other facilities will learn from their empty stalls and be able to make the changes necessary to have a first class facility.

To date, I've not found a saddle rack made that does not compromise a saddle. Often when I have to reflock a saddle to fit the horse more properly, it is because pressure from a metal or wooden storage rack has compressed the wool causing the saddle to bridge when placed on the horse. If the saddle is foam or felt, the compromise can be permanent.

Recently I rechecked on a horse and saddle that I had worked on only six months earlier. When I left the saddle with my client, it had fit the horse well. However, my client felt the wool packed down too quickly. When I looked at the panel, I was concerned that I had not flocked it correctly. When placed on the horse, it was obvious more wool had to be added. She also asked me to check her other saddle that had been done about the same time as the first. That one too fit the same way. How I had screwed up on both completely baffled me. Fortunately, the mystery was solved when I checked her saddle rack which had been purchased because it was supposed to protect saddles. It had not and was the cause of the compression. Now that she has padded her racks, both saddles continue to fit the horse and she is not having to pay for reflocking every few months.

On any type of rack, a thick pad should be placed under the saddle. At no time should saddles be stacked, a common practice in many tack rooms. Adequate storage is often a problem in most barns but proper saddle fit is so important that ways must be found to keep the saddle panels from being compromised or damaged for the benefit of the horse.

I have the opportunity to observe the work of most of the farriers in the area and not all of them understand proper foot angle. Unfortunately too many of them leave too much toe which results in little or, in some cases, no heel at all. This type of balancing causes the horse to have no foot to support the leg.

When the horse is forced to stand over a toe that is too long in the hind and also has too much foot in front, the back is compromised. Imagine leaning forward over your feet and stretching your fingers out and up. Where do you feel the pull? In your back, especially just behind your shoulder blades. That is the part that is compromised most on the horse, hollows hard to fit, when the horse has a toe that is too long in the front and hind.

I have seen horses whose legs, when an imaginary line is drawn down to the ground, have the entire foot out in front. The foot is supposed to support the legs and the body and, unless it is underneath, no support is given. The structure of the horse was made for the foot to support the body and if the shoeing is not correct, the structure is altered. Joints and muscles cannot work as intended and eventually damage is done to the body. Unless the angle of the foot is corrected, and slowly, permanent damage can take place. Wonder why horses have to have their hocks injected? It's because the body is not being supported correctly.

Finding a good farrier is difficult, but they are out there. If you feel you are not getting what your horse needs, find a new one. I stuck for a long time with one that was leaving too much toe because I felt we were friends. Both of my horses were having trouble with their backs and hind-ends, however I placed my loyalty to the farrier over what was best for my horses. I made the change eventually and have been grateful ever since. My horses now are much more comfortable. Their backs have come up and the process of shoeing is no longer a horrendous experience. Recently we were able to trim both in less than an hour. Previously the process often took several for each and was always very difficult and stressful for both the equines and the humans.

Many of the products now available to help us care for our leather goods may only make the surface look and feel good while damaging the underlying fibers. Leather cannot be conditioned with water and yet many of the popular and well-advertised brands have very high water content. Liquid soap is liquid because it is mostly water. It appears to clean but instead it dries out the inner fibers that are needed to keep the leather supple and long lasting.

The one step method, no matter which brand is used, should only be used in an emergency and not for routine care. I once tried to work on a very stiff but slimy saddle whose owner had religiously followed the directions on the one step container.

Instead of feeding the leather, she had sealed the pores and prevented any softening. I had to give the saddle back to her to clean correctly before I could use a more effective softener. I could not replace the wool in the panels until I had some elasticity in the leather of the panels. We improved the condition of the saddle but were unable to get back what had been there in the beginning. She had unknowingly shortened the life of her saddle by her leather care.

Water spots that appear on saddles even when not used in the rain may actually be coming as a result of the water content in the cleaner or conditioner rather than because of a problem with the tanning process of leather. Often they will diminish or disappear with the use of a true leather conditioner.

Leather does not have to be "scrubbed" regularly. Often after use, just wiping with a damp rag will suffice. When dirt has built up, I recommend the use of a mild dish detergent with a small amount of water to remove the dirt. The use of a glycerin or an oil-based soap often seals the dirt in rather than removes it. After a thorough cleaning and time for drying, a conditioner should be used that is very similar to the original tanning process, a natural animal or vegetable product. A light coat of glycerin can be used after the leather is treated to help hold the conditioner in.

Leather can be "over done" as well as "under done." Too soft is not any better than too dry. Most of the saddles I see are at either extreme rather than "just right."

A conditioner should be applied when the leather becomes dry and only often enough to keep the leather supple.

Where the leather is stored can have an effect on the drying out process. The best place to store the leather is in a temperature-regulated room. That usually means in a house or a heated tack room. Keeping tack in an unheated tack room subject to temperature fluctuations and humidity causes the leather to dry out or build up too much moisture and then mold. Even with proper leather care the temperature or moisture fluctuations cause trauma to the fibers of the leather.

Since leather is skin from an animal, it can be seen as similar to our skin and treated as such. When our skin gets dry, we put on a lotion. If the product has too much water in it, although it makes our skin feel soft, our skin will soon dry out. Temperature changes affect us as well as our leather saddle. How we care for our skin is very much how we should care for our saddle or tack.

There are a few good products for leather on the market, however there are many that don't really condition. Choose one that has very little water and usually that will be one that is thicker and more cream like. I still use, recommend, and sell a natural product called TACK TAMER. It was developed for the leather car seats of Mercedes and Jaguars and has been very successful in keeping the leather crack-free and supple. Owners of such expensive vehicles are not about to sacrifice their investment with something that doesn't work well.